Pro Tip: Five basic principles for making high-quality bread haven’t changed in more than 250 years.
Over the past 15 years, my collection of antique books on baking has led me to a true treasure: Paul Jacques Malouin’s Description and Details about the Art of Milling and Baking (1764). In this book, Malouin lays out five principles for making quality bread. Surprisingly, they still hold true today.
While changes have certainly occurred over the years with better machinery and technology, these time-tested baking principles offer valuable lessons on how to enhance today’s bread-making process.
Principle 1: Understand water quality
Recognizing the pivotal role of water in every baked creation, Mr. Malouin underscores its significance in determining the quality and consistency of a bakery operation.
In his observations, Mr. Malouin acknowledged that water wields a direct impact on the quality of the finished product. In our contemporary era, advancements in technology have equipped bakers with tools to delve into crucial water parameters such as pH, hardness, mineral content and source.
In today’s bakeries, recognizing the vital impact of water quality is not just great advice — it’s imperative. Bakers now have the means to access precise information about their water supply, allowing them to make informed decisions that directly influence the outcome of their products.
The enduring wisdom of Mr. Malouin resonates in the present, urging bakers to establish a direct line of communication with their local water treatment plants.
By obtaining comprehensive water reports and familiarizing themselves with the nuances of water quality, bakers empower themselves to elevate the overall standard of their baked goods in a manner that aligns seamlessly with modern technological capabilities.
Principle 2: Leavening source matters
Mr. Malouin writes about leavening and its importance in making breads edible and digestible at a time when yeast was not even known to the scientific community.
It was not until Louis Pasteur discovered fermentation and yeast in 1857 that we realized the crucial role played by the leavening agent.
Whether it be the natural charm of sourdough, commercial yeast or the precision of chemical leavening, each imparts its own distinctive texture and flavor on the final product.
Fast forward to the present, and contemporary bakers find themselves harmonizing with Mr. Malouin’s wisdom. The emphasis on the leavening agent remains steadfast, with a modern twist.
Today’s bakers are not just concerned with any leavening agent; bakers have access to new yeast and advanced leavening systems. In an era where precision and consistency are paramount, the quality and type of the leavening agent is an essential part for achieving the desired texture, rise and overall quality in baked goods.
Principle 3: Quality wheat and consistent milling
Mr. Malouin’s discerning wisdom extends beyond the mere act of baking, delving into the very foundation of the process — the quality and type of wheat, along with the consistency of the milling process.
In his era, as in ours, the choice of wheat and the meticulousness of milling were recognized as pivotal factors in crafting exceptional baked goods.
In today’s landscape, bakers have the tools and information to implement quality control programs that draw upon analytical data provided by mills.
For the contemporary baker, it’s not just about having flour; it’s about knowing which type of flour is best suited for each specific product, the farinograph, ash level and falling number.
This level of understanding has become a cornerstone in the art of baking, guiding bakers to select the ideal flour that aligns with creating consistent quality pastry bread loaf.
Principle 4: Mastering mixing techniques
Mr. Malouin’s exploration of mixing styles reveals their pivotal role in achieving diverse breads and textures.
In today’s industrial baking world, the era of hand mixing has given way to industrial mixers, unleashing a new level of precision and scale. Modern bakers no longer knead by hand; instead, they rely on these tools to develop the dough.
However, the advancement in technology does not diminish the significance of understanding how proper mixing and the style of mixer directly impacts the texture and shelf life of baked goods.
Mr. Malouin’s age-old wisdom thus transcends time, reminding us that the mastery of mixing, whether by hand or machine, remains an indispensable skill for those aiming to produce exceptional baked goods in the 21st Century.
Principle 5: The art of baking
Baking, the defining step in the process, sets the final structure, imparts a rich golden crust and preserves bread moisture for extended shelf life.
Mr. Malouin’s emphasis on maintaining ovens echoes in modern times, advocating for regular checks, burner cleaning, and ensuring energy efficiency and safety.
Although Mr. Malouin penned these principles 260 years ago, their enduring relevance underscores their timeless importance. Amid technological advancements, whether AI, machinery, functional ingredients or packaging equipment, adherence to these baking principles, coupled with a trained and educated staff, remains the cornerstone of producing quality baked goods.
Richard Charpentier is a classically trained French baker, CMB, holds a degree in baking science from Kansas State University, and is owner and chief executive officer of Baking Innovation. Connect with him on LinkedIn.